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This is one of those labour-of-love joints that have you cooing with pleasure. Simon runs the front of house, while Aussie-born Jason looks after the kitchen, and it feels like dining at the house of friends. Regulars bring in their fruit to be turned into conserves, lending a Darling Buds Of May aura, and in its local sourcing, simplicity and accuracy of cooking, and glossy mag presentation, the food is pretty much perfick.

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